Best Sushi


Don't let the name deceive you. Although it may sound more like an Irish pub than a Japanese restaurant, O'shan (like "ocean," get it?) serves sushi that is simply divine. A small, family-owned joint with the stately patriarch expertly wielding a blade behind the bar, O'shan's menu features both traditional fare and modern rolls. The place excels at elegant classics, such as the negi-toro roll, chopped fatty tuna blended with scallions. Fish lovers will savor the decadent flavor of sake beni nigiri: two fat slices of wild, in-season sockeye salmon resting atop twin pillows of perfectly seasoned rice. The beauty of O'shan's uncomplicated combinations—like cucumber and fuji apple or salt-cured mackerel with a sprinkling of fresh ginger and shiso leaf—is reflected in the restaurant's decor: a minimalist painting of a green sea and a blue sky that towers over the large table in the corner. And while it doesn't serve Guinness, big bottles of Sapporo are available to wash down all that sashimi. KEEGAN HAMILTON 5809 24th Ave. N.W., 420-3737,

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