Best Soul Food

Uncle Thurm

Thurmond Brokenbrough—the Uncle Thurm of the title—answers the phone like so: "You've reached Uncle Thurm, the man with the plan, the master of disaster, the geeter with the heater, the square from Delaware. How can I help you?" The extended hello guarantees Brokenbrough a win in the Best Phone Greeting category, but he's also making a strong case, with his pork chops and yams, for top soul-food honors. Southerners stationed at Joint Base Lewis-McChord count on Brokenbrough for home-style cooking they can't find elsewhere, including greens simmered with smoky ham hocks. HANNA RASKIN 3709 S. G St., Tacoma, 253-475-1881,

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