Best Lunch Counter

Il Corvo

For eaters who haven't made the pilgrimage to Il Corvo (and if you haven't, can you really call yourself an eater?), it's known as the weekday-only, cash-only lunch joint where the owner won't package pasta to go and steadfastly refuses to serve gluten-free noodles. Mike Easton's customers, though, know Il Corvo as the source of spectacular pasta. Easton makes two or three shapes and sauces a day, and they're all wonderful. Not surprisingly, he's passionate about his work: When Voracious tried to wrangle Easton for a column about chefs' hobbies, he revealed his life only consists of spending time with his young daughter and thinking about noodles. HANNA RASKIN 1501 Western Ave., 622-4280,

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