Best French Fries


The slender skin-on potatoes at Szmania's should probably be called French fries fries, since Ludger Szmania insists on frying the hand-cut beauts twice. But the potatoes first spend a night soaking in ice water, which leaches out the starches that might otherwise interfere with the fries' reaching maximum crispness. The regime works: Szmania's fries have creamy centers, crisp exteriors, and a lustrous gold finish. HANNA RASKIN 3321 W. McGraw St., 284-7305,

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