Here?s what most people know about wine: It?s yummy. Here?s another thing most people know about wine: It?s expensive. But I bet you didn?t know this: Canlis has a bottle on its wine list that will cost you more than a new 2011 Volkswagen Jetta. Put that in your glass and swish it! Sure, being glib is a great way to cover up one?s lack of knowledge about wine, but it?s also a great way to get yourself schooled by an aficionado. Said aficionado will say the best thing about Canlis? wine list is that it doesn?t focus on cost or fads, but is an extremely ?thoughtful? list?an actual ?experience? for those who know what it all means. Said aficionado will then turn his attention back to the wine list, and you will cease to exist for the next 60 (or more) minutes while he contemplates the LII (Lifetime Income Impact) of ordering the $17,500 magnum of 1990 Domaine de la Roman?e-Conti, La Tache, Grand Cru with dinner, and perhaps the $2,500 Imperial 6L of 2003 Chateau Rieussec, Premier Cru, Bordeaux with dessert. ZIBBY WILDER 2576 Aurora Ave. N., 283-3313, canlis.com