My sense of weather was so skewed by a year spent in Texas that I didn?t pack a coat when I drove to Seattle. I realized my mistake in Montana, where I bought a boy?s fleece jacket at a Walmart for $1. That?s the coat I wore to my first meal at Canlis, the legendary citadel of civilized service. I still haven?t quite surmounted the shame of seeing a hostess, bent over the fireplace like Quasimodo, clasping my one-buck coat. ?I?ll continue warming your coat,? she promised as I walked toward the bathroom. If I?d stayed for another course, she?d probably have knitted me a scarf. HANNA RASKIN 2576 Aurora Ave. N., 283-3313, canlis.com