According to local legend, back in 1904 when pre-annexation Ballard was the seventh-largest city in the state of Washington and notorious for boozing and gambling, its mayor ordered all city business to cease for a day as a mandatory respite from his citizens? carousing. Obviously, it ain?t your great grandpappy Sven?s Ballard anymore. And that?s a good thing. Mostly. Lament the condo invasion if you like, but the truth is that the new high-density Ballard is the natural evolution of the working-class burg that predated it. There are still beautiful parks and public areas, easy access to downtown, and enough bars that a thirsty person could belly up to a different one every Friday night for a year. But it?s also now home to an outstanding farmers market, many of the city?s finest restaurants, great music venues and record stores, a good movie theater, boutique shops, and, admittedly, quite a bit of bourgeoisie. And though it?s not nearly as blue-collar as it was, you don?t have to look too terribly hard to find rowdy dockworkers and boatsmen. You just have to visit the right bar. KEEGAN HAMILTON