Though many customers don?t realize it, butchers at most large grocery stores will custom-cut your meat. That?s good to know, because the three-quarter-inch steaks that are wrapped for easy picking just aren?t thick enough to get a deep sear on the outside and stay crimson through the middle. For that you?ll need an inch and a half, maybe two, which would cost a fortune at a boutique butcher. Fortunately, on any given weekend, at least one grocery?like the Capitol Hill Safeway?sports bone-in New York strip at peasant prices. It may be for only one day, and you may have to scan the online coupons to find it, but the search is worth it for the perfect steak. CHRIS KORNELIS 1410 E. John St., 323-4988