James Wang would really like you to try his pie. He knows that you probably just stopped in to his store, Bakeman?s Restaurant near Pioneer Square, for one of his signature meatloaf sandwiches, or maybe fresh-roasted turkey with cranberry sauce on wheat. But by the time you get to the cash register with your food (a trip that averages about 45 seconds), Mr. Wang will have told you all the reasons why a slice of homemade apple or cherry pie will truly complete your lunch. Not that the advice is unwelcome?the pie is amazing?but getting to know Mr. Wang and the adorably pushy way he runs his restaurant is one of the keys in understanding why Bakeman?s is the best lunch counter in Seattle. Of course, the better reason is that its sandwiches, soups, salads, and sides are all fresh, delicious, and sold at a price only slightly above what it?d cost to make the food yourself. CURTIS CARTIER 122 Cherry St., 622-3375, bakemanscatering.com