Best Clutter

Icon Grill

I love industrial-chic restaurant design. I love converted garages, concrete, exposed girders, and black napkins on blond-wood tables adorned with a single Gerber daisy in a bud vase. But I also love clutter, and Icon Grill makes me giddy with its over-the-top-ness. I love the jumble of cabinets and framed mirrors behind the bar; the School-of-Chihuly seaforms stuffed into wire baskets hanging all over the place; and, most of all, the fact that, color-wise, everything is somewhere along the warm side of the spectrum, from brown to orange to red to pink, suffusing the large room in a salmon-peachy glow. "It's so 1981," my plus-one sniffs. No, he's thinking of the brass-and-fern era. Icon is more the burlesque-queen love child of a 1890 New Orleans bordello and a Venetian glassworks. GAVIN BORCHERT 1933 Fifth Ave., 441-6330,

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