There are deluxe steakhouse burgers, with pound-heavy patties and untraditional toppings like alfalfa sprouts or foie gras, and then there are the simple, old-fashioned burgers that bring you back to your childhood, sitting at a picnic table while Dad stands in front of the grill. Uneeda Burger's Classic falls squarely into the latter category, with its quarter-pound of medium-rare beef, Romaine lettuce, tomato, pickle, cheddar, and, for some extra flair, Uneeda's horseradish-based special sauce, a kicky little concoction your mom might have whipped up in the kitchen. Uneeda, of course, has a number of more creative options--the Philly Smash, the Medi-terra--but the Classic is easy, tasty perfection for the kid in all of us. And sometimes nothing's better than nostalgia food. ERIN K. THOMPSON 4302 Fremont Ave. N., 547-2600, uneedaburger.com