Hudson is a slightly gentrified quasi-dive, a snug brick box with tall windows on three sides surrounding a horseshoe lunch counter/bar. It concentrates on Southern-flavored diner fare, especially at breakfast: grits, hash, biscuits and gravy, pulled pork (among other things, the delicious stuffing for a burrito-sized omelet) and $3.50 "beermosas"— beer and OJ. The entire interior and all the furnishings are brown or black. The clientele, about as eclectic as Seattle can offer, includes hipsters, bikers, barflies, gay couples, soccer moms and dads, and even, amazingly, some people who can't be simplistically categorized. GAVIN BORCHERT 5000 E. Marginal Way, 767-4777, hudsonseattle.com.