Simple geography puts the Pacific Northwest about as far from the birthplace of American barbecue as one can get (and not be in Alaska). That, however, doesn't mean that one can't find plenty of rib-sticking 'cue joints to belly up to. The best among them is a place in Ballard called Smokin' Pete's BBQ. And while lesser barbecue restaurants fall into the trap of relying on sauce to make their fare sing, Smokin' Pete's keeps the sauce at the table and lets the meat speak for itself. The results are ribs that fall off the bone, brisket that melts in your mouth like room-temperature butter, and pulled pork that, if formed into a woman-shaped mound, would be marriage material. CURTIS CARTIER 1918 N.W. 65th St., 783-0454, smokinpetesbbq.com