This place smells like my Swedish great-grandmother's kitchen, the intoxicating fragrances of flour, butter, and sugar. Nielsen's pastriesin lower Queen Anne is a throwback kind of coffee shop, where Zoka drip is served in cups and saucers. If you're smart, you'll order at least one flaky pastry to go with your brew. Make mine a snitter. This Nordic breakfast of champions is a cross between a cinnamon roll and a cheese danish. Of course, you can't go wrong with the kringle or a monster cookie either. The only thing that would complete this time warp is a little Stan Boreson on the sound system. ?Leslie Kelly 520 Second Ave. W., 282-3004