It might be listed on the menu as an appetizer, but Crush's parsnip flan with Steelhead roe, bacon-infused crème fraîche, and parsnip frites is nothing less than an unsweet treat. The flan is a savory pudding with a delicate bitter edge, the perfect foil for the bacony-rich crème fraîche and the orange salt bombs of Steelhead roe. This plate, all soft textures and hits of intense color, looks every bit a dolled-up dessert?but don't be fooled. It is certainly rich, but this dish is meant just to get you started, not to finish. A salt fiend, however, might just order one for dessert. ?Adriana Grant 2319 Madison St., 302-7874