When Sitka & Spruce chef/owner Matt Dillon decided to ditch his strip-mall locale and head to the new Melrose Project this past May, fans wondered if the warmth of the small Eastlake space would translate to Capitol Hill. It did. The new incarnation has the intimate feel of the old Sitka with the added romance and charm of Dillon's other space, the Corson Building in Georgetown. Maybe it's all the candlelight, but the food seems a bit classier, too. The small menu, foraged from local farms, highlights the simplicity Dillon and his staff use to coax subtle flavors from the freshest foods. The huge butcher block in the middle of the dining room takes center stage, welcoming walk-ins to sit at the communal table and watch as the highly talented kitchen crew prepares their meals. ?Julien Perry 1531 Melrose Ave., 324-0662