When the venerable Admiral Benbow Inn finally gave up the ghost a few years ago, its passing was attended by fans, pirates, even the mayor. And when partners Jay Wergin and Jeff Loren picked up the space recently, with every intention of turning it into a retail sausage company until it became easier for them just to open a restaurant, they took one look at what was left of the Spanish galleon–themed bar in the back and knew they had something special on their hands. It took them some time, but what they have now is the Benbow Room, a faithful reconstruction of the original Admiral Benbow's bar, serviced food-wise by the kitchen of their Heartland Cafe?a gastronomical ode to the foods of the American Midwest. At the Heartland (and thus at the Benbow), one can get casseroles, fried chicken, meatloaf sandwiches, brats, burgers, and, most important, Tater Tots?which are basically like their own food group in Middle America. And the fact that one can, without raising an eyebrow, slap on an eye patch, rent a parrot, and hang out in the Benbow Room drinking rum-heavy pirate drinks and eating gigantic plates of Tater Tots loaded down with bacon and sour cream? That's just one of the things that makes Seattle awesome. ?Jason Sheehan 4210 S.W. Admiral Way, 922-3313