Lynnwood and Shoreline offer the most options in the Seattle area when it comes to Korean food. Surprisingly, a small space tucked inside a strip mall on Capitol Hill surpasses them all. Kimchi Bistro is a modest, family-run business, with only eight tables on the floor, Korean skin-care ads plastered on the walls, and soft rock playing overhead. But the food and service will make you feel like the family's favorite grandchild. Staples like bulgogi, bibimbap, and kalbi come in hearty portions, accompanied by rice and bottomless banchan (side dishes). If you want another cup of complimentary barley tea, ask and you shall receive it, always with a warm smile. ?Erika Hobart 219 Broadway E., 323-4472