How appropriate that this year's award for Best Hole in the Wall goes to a place that is literally not much more than a hole in a wall? Mee Sum Pastry (specifically, the Pike Place Market location) is just a walk-up storefront, and it stands as a perfect example of what street food should be, since everyone who comes here for the incredible BBQ pork hom bow eats theirs walking. The aroma of the place when the wind is just right is something like what heaven must smell like?all sweet and salty and redolent of hot ovens, baking pastry, and barbecued pork. While the cash-only food stall is usually crowded from morning 'til night, nearly every single person who visits Mee Sum is there for just one thing: the hom bow. Nothing more than a bit of pork, a bit of sauce, and a bit of bread, it nonetheless stands as one of the city's greatest three- or four-bite meals, simply because Mee Sum has managed to put that pork, that sweet-and-savory, bright-red barbecue sauce, and that ethereally soft, warm, fluffy bread in ideal balance?like an edible baseball full of pig, like a bread cloud stuffed with barbecue. One is a snack, two can be a meal. ?Jason Sheehan 1526 Pike Place, 682-6780