Rodízio (Portuguese for "rotation") is a Brazilian style of restaurant service: You pay a fixed price and passing servers bearing meat-laden skewers repeatedly offer to slice from them onto your plate until you signal them to stop. Ipanema Brazilian Grill offers 18 differently prepared meats during dinner, including buffalo, lamb, pork, and several cuts of steak. All the animals are slow-roasted in charcoal grills so their natural flavors are preserved. Some are then wrapped in bacon, and you can cleanse your palate with pineapple between courses. But be forewarned: Once you've experienced eating your way through the animal kingdom, every future barbecue you attend will look absolutely pitiful in comparison. ?Erika Hobart 1225 First Ave., 957-8444