University Way presents such a turnover-prone kaleidoscope of ethnic eateries, niche retail outlets, and budget-friendly takeout that it's easy to forget about the strip's perennials, like Big Time Brewery. Despite its extremely close proximity to the University of Washington campus, "Seattle's original brewpub" isn't really a college bar. Granted, plenty of profs, grad students, and slacker alums who never gave up their mother-in-law apartment near Cowen Park hunker down and drink here, but the crowd'll rarely roar when the Dawgs go deep, and cheap well drinks aren't downed in overabundance. In fact, they're not downed at all, as Big Time serves only beer?and wine, technically, but no one comes for that. Instead they come for the sausage, red onion, and roasted red pepper pizza, as well as for the Scarlet Fire IPA, a beer so flavorful that if it were bubble gum and you chewed into it, it would squirt on contact, much like a horny Husky thrusting his lance into a moist meadow for the first time. ?Mike Seely 4133 University Way N.E., 545-4509, bigtimebrewery.com