When you get free bread with a meal, you don't have much leverage to make sure that bread is of superb quality. In fact, if a restaurant wants to serve you only the crusts from stale loaves of Wonder bread, you've really got no recourse to bitch. What are you going to say? "Hey, waiter, these bread crusts aren't what I expected for zero dollars." But at La Rustica, you'll be ecstatic, because the free bread they give you?until you cry for mercy?is delicious, fresh-baked sticks of focaccia. Beach Drive's lone commercial enterprise is tiny and doesn't take reservations for parties of less than six, but they have a back room. And in that back room, where you currently are permitted to drink, they should hurl focaccia at the patient patrons like they do throwed rolls in Missouri. That'd be awesome. Awesomely tasty. ?Mike Seely 4100 Beach Dr. S.W., 932-3020, larusticarestaurant.com