While away an evening at Caf? Presse enjoying the low-key pleasures of a simple salad and a non-fussy wine pour while lazily paging through some high-minded glossy periodical. House wine, red or white, is served by the glass and carafe, and is super cheap and quite tasty. The salade verte is a spherical sculpture of tender butter lettuce dressed in a piquant vinaigrette and dotted with roasted hazelnuts. The newsstand offers Le Monde, Harper's, Arcade, and more. Don't forget to look up from the page every so often, as the people-watching is very, very good. ?Adriana Grant 1117 12th Ave., 709-7674