Everyone knows by now that EVOO, as Rachael Ray has renamed it, is the healthy fat. The fat you're supposed to whisk into vinaigrettes, toss vegetables for roasting in, dress pasta with. Why, just dipping your finger into a puddle of extra-virgin and licking it off confers benefits the likes of which your butter-addled body has never experienced. That's why Molly Moon's Sam's Sundae?chocolate ice cream drizzled with bergamot-infused EVOO and sprinkled with coarse sea salt?is to be commended for making olive oil decadent again. We won't begrudge owner Molly Neitzel for copying the sundae from Bi-Rite Creamery in San Francisco because she executes the idea so well?with just a scattering of salt to prickle the tongue, opening up the palate for the rush of chocolate and sugar, and the oil to invisibly carry the bergamot flavor (think Earl Grey tea) across the surface of the ice cream. You don't taste the oil as much as you do the floral notes of the citrus zest. It's bewitching. Entrancing. And easily 800 calories. Take that, Rachael Ray.?Jonathan Kauffman