With its tiny sniffers and minuscule cups, the Gung Fu service nearly resembles a child's tea-party set. But small does not mean inelegant. Gung Fu turns tea into a multisensory experience. Teacup's Brett Boynton practiced the ceremony here in Seattle and in Vancouver as well as Taiwan. Now every Saturday he uses it to introduce anyone wandering into the Queen Anne shop about seasonal oolongs and carefully steamed senchas. "Usually three teas or so, depending on my mood," he explains. "I like to feature what's new and fresh with the focus on traditional, unscented teas." The only thing Boynton loves more than the leaves steeping in his small clay pot is to help newbies discover that tea is so much more than just crushed leaves in a Tazo bag.?Laura Onstot