If you've never had pork broth, it's time to remedy that. The tonkotsu ramen at Samurai Noodle?noodles in a milky, meaty soup, the product of pork bones simmered for hours?is the richest thing in the house, and for many patrons the only thing to order here. It's glistening and topped with generous slices of roast pork. Service at Samurai is more quick than courteous, and the tables are crammed close together, but you won't mind any of that. It's nice of them to offer more fat in the broth, but you really won't need it.?Adriana Grant 606 Fifth Ave. S., 624-9321.