Best Place to Re-Embrace the "Wrap"


Why the tube-shaped lunch took off in the mid-'90s is still baffling. There's the obvious Freudian interpretation, but sometimes a "wrap" with Thai chicken and Peruvian chile-infused rice is just a long, fat, tortilla-wrapped bad idea. The naan sandwiches at Shalimar in the U District take the tubewich places you'd actually want it to go. Shalimar bases them on boti rolls, a popular northern Indian street snack, and the many variations don't stray from the cuisine that inspired them. The cooks pull an oval of just-baked naan out of the tandoor; line up seekh kabobs, chunks of roasted chicken, orange-tinted tandoori fish, or spiced potato patties along the center of the bread; and surround them with vegetables and some yogurt or chutney. Then they wrap the sandwich up into a long, fat, puffy, messy, indescribably delicious cylinder.—Jonathan Kauffman

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