Food & Drink

Comments (0) Best New Local Frozen Dairy Indulgence, Gelato Division - 2008

Poco Carretto gelato

In a category by itself, Poco CArretto gelato comes bearing the pedigree of chef Holly Smith, recently named Best Chef Northwest by the James Beard Foundation. And though this dessert has been served for years at her Kirkland restaurant, Cafe Juanita, you can now find it at farmers markets around town. A cute cart offers a half-dozen intense flavors to choose from, scooped up at that perfectly melty texture. The trouble is, it's all too good. How does one decide between crudo (raw milk with organic extra-virgin olive oil) and a near-bitter burnt sugar with a scoop of duck egg? Other choices range from the expected—and still heavenly—gianduja (chocolate hazelnut) to a very subtle toasted rice. All feel more indulgent than they are, for this dessert is milk-based, not cream-based, though you'd never know that from tasting. Order yours served in a brioche and stroll the markets, making all the big kids jealous.—Adriana Grant

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