All you Saigon Deli fans don't know what you're missing. The xiu mai banh mi at Tony's Bakery in Rainier Valley is ever the best. Sure, it's more expensive—$2 as opposed to $1.50—but somehow, the warmed baguette is lighter and crispier, the pickled daikon and carrot stuffed into the sandwich in just the right proportion, and there's tons of that sweet mayonnaise that seems to bring it all together. The xiu mai, or meatball, is a loose sausage whose rich juices soak into the bread, so if you want to get the full range of textures, from vegetal-crisp to creamy, you have to eat it quick. Make sure you say yes to the green chiles. Agree to the cilantro. And order two.—Jonathan Kauffman 6020 Martin Luther King Jr. Way, 722-8800.