Belle Epicurean is an airy, open cafe, barely a year and a half old, offering a tempting array of baked goods, from ham-and-Gruyère brioches made with Mornay sauce to fanciful raspberry-coulis-swirled, meringue-topped, mini chocolate cakes touched with gold leaf. It all looks too good to poke a fork into, but once you make that first stab, your guilt at destroying such a gorgeous concoction will quickly subside. Here, the simplest offering may be the best: Belle Epicurean's classic pecan brioche bun is a swirl of airy, eggy brioche, shiny with caramelized sugar and topped with a sprinkling of pecan bits. Pull the sweet, crunchy outer portion from the swirl, and you'll find a cinnamon-dotted, moist inner core. About the size of your fist, this simple cinnamon bun is the perfect sweet treat. —Adriana Grant 1206 Fourth Ave., 262-9404, www.belleepicurean.com.