Some come to Both Ways Cafe for the cinnamon rolls. Some come for that scuffed-wood, post-hippie vibe. I go for the biscuits. As anyone from the South or Midwest will tell you, biscuit making is a simple art to master, which is why it's so shocking that no one on the West Coast can make a proper one. Except Dick Wall, owner and head baker of Both Ways Cafe, at the eastern end of Genesee. Wall knows a biscuit shouldn't be big and puffy, nor dense and oily. Flaky—that texture you get when you add too much Crisco—isn't the right word, either. The crusty surface of his biscuit is pebbled and dusty gold. A little steam sighs from the center when you crack it open, and the insides are like moist cotton batting. Of course, Both Ways' biscuit takes to butter and jam like pasta to Parmigiano-Reggiano. But it doesn't need it.—Jonathan Kauffman 4922 S. Genesee St., 722-5799.