All the communal tables and underground restaurants held in frat houses you encounter these days seem to fall right in line with boho Seattle's discomfort over splurging on dinner. But nothing brings the dining experience down to earth more than, well, sitting on the floor. HOSOONYI, a cult restaurant in the Korean-American community, is split into two halves. To the left: cheap strip-mall cafe. To the right: a lovely, wood-paneled, traditional Korean dining room, with 2-foot-high tables and red cushions instead of chairs. Temporarily abandoned sneakers cascade down the steps outside the Korean room, and inside, big families or groups of friends lounge or sit cross-legged while they tuck away spicy tofu stew, enormous seafood pancakes, grilled meats, and cases of Hite beer. The only seating arrangement more in tune with my style would be Roman dining couches.—Jonathan Kauffman 23830 Hwy. 99, Ste. 114, Edmonds, 425-775-8196.