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Personally, I'm cool with that. I love street tacos. I love menudo and posole and chicharones and all those things that judgmental foodies would call "real" Mexican food. But there is room in my heart for Mama's food as well. Lots of room, for all the once-removed authenticity and side-branch history it entails.

Which was why, on my fourth and final visit, I was happy to once again find my favorite booth unoccupied. Relaxing in the pre-rush quiet, I drank cold Coronas and ate a deep-fried taco, waiting for just the right moment.

Foodies may turn up their noses at Tori Allessi’s decadent Elvis Presley burrito, but they’re missing the point.
Peter Mumford
Foodies may turn up their noses at Tori Allessi’s decadent Elvis Presley burrito, but they’re missing the point.

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Mama's Mexican Kitchen

2234 Second Ave.
Seattle, WA 98121

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: Belltown

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Mama's Mexican Kitchen 2234 Second Ave., 728-6262, mamas.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

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Because this time, I'd brought a Sharpie of my own.

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