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The Lams' cluttered, delicious Asian-American dream.

I would return for more dumplings; for half a duck on the bone, served with steamed pork buns, off Sang's special menu; for noodles of my own (Singapore chow fun with chicken in a smoky curry sauce). I would sit and eat behind steamed windows on a cold night, in a dining room even more wrecked than the first time I'd seen it, and, alone, try to imagine where Sang had learned to cook duck, to handle curry, to encompass such breadth in a place so small.

First impressions: They're the important ones. At Mandarin Chef, the excellence of the food and the friendliness of the house is belied by the small, run-down, nondescript space, the cluttered floor, the tables decorated with the remains of someone else's dinner. But it was that first instant—stepping through the door with friends, seeing the small and terrible wreck of the place, smelling in the hot, damp air the scent of great food hidden somewhere in the back—that I will always most powerfully recall. It will be the heavy thunk of the dumpling platter hitting our table, the tumbled pile of shrimp on my plate, the first bite of Sang and Lang's Sichuan jiao-zi, and the understanding of the years and miles it'd taken them to bring these flavors, finally, to me.

The Lams fulfilled their American dream 13 years ago in "a shotgun shack of a space."
Peter Mumford
The Lams fulfilled their American dream 13 years ago in "a shotgun shack of a space."

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Mandarin Chef

5022 University Way NE
Seattle, WA 98105

Category: Restaurant > Chinese

Region: University District

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Mandarin Chef 5022 University Way, 528-7596, mandarinchef.com. Open daily 11 a.m.–10 p.m., closed Sunday.

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