We Need GOOD Chicago-Style Pizza; A Shot at Calamity Jane's; Good Food at a Bowling Alley

Selections from Voracious, our daily food blog.

Let Me Clarify: Seattle Needs a GOOD Chicago-Style Pizza JointSo, in my "Ten Restaurants Seattle Needs" article from Dec. 26, one of the restaurants I said I'd like to see in Seattle is a Chicago deep-dish pizza place. In the comments section of the online article—what, you haven't started commenting on Weekly articles yet?—a couple of people wrote in to say that Seattle did in fact have a Chicago-style pizza place: Delfino's Pizza in U Village.Now, some pizza fanatics are complaining that stuffed-crust may be on the wane in Chicago anyway, replaced by the hipper Italian thin-crust style that's also huge here. But I moved to Seattle from the Bay Area, where all three of the Zachary's Chicago Pizza spots are always slammed and where two new Chicago-style pizza chains (Little Star and Patxi's) have recently emerged, specializing in stuffed-crust pizzas with less cheese and fresher toppings/fillings than anything Gino's East ever put out.So after hot shame burned a couple of holes in my small intestine about the oversight, I took a friend to Delfino's, which, ha ha, has been at the Village for more than a decade. The menu said Delfino's stuffed-crust pizza took 35 minutes to cook, so we calculated the time until the late screening of I'm Not There at the Varsity began, ordered a pie, grabbed some magazines, and waited.After an hour, the other six tables in the restaurant all were devouring their pizzas, the cooks were giving us worried looks, and I thought, hunh, they must have screwed up our pie and had to make a new one. Then our server bounced up to us. "I just put your pizza order in, ha ha, sorry, ha ha!" she said. "Can I get you another salad while you wait?"Wait an hour and thirty-five minutes for something we wouldn't have time to eat before our movie started? No thanks. We got up, put on our coats, and told her we'd just pay for the salad and drinks, thank you. She disappeared into the back for five minutes, then the other waitress (quick calculation: each server only had three tables to cover) finally came out and told us they'd take care of the salad, no apologies.So, I'm going to let my original comment stand, with one amendment: Seattle needs a good Chicago-style pizza place.— Jonathan KauffmanGood Food + Bowling?If you asked me to name food-centric entertainment concepts rolling out new red carpets in our fair nation, "bowling" wouldn't top the list. I've never been to a bowling alley built after my birth date, and food at a bowling alley? Spare me. But apparently I've been bowling at all the wrong places (or, as the case may be, not bowling at all).Like its counterparts across the country, the Lucky Strike Lanes that opened tonight in Bellevue is taking the old out of bowling. Lucky's retro-chic interior looks ready for third-generation Jetsons—16 fancy lanes with automatic scoring (damn! so much harder to cheat!), plasma televisions everywhere, two fancy bars (with drinks like "The Dude's White Russian"), and what appears to be a pretty good menu.Yup, the small-plates wave has crashed here. Can't wait to slip my greasy digits into a bowling ball (sorry, sir, it slipped!) after finishing off a nice plate of bite-sized mac-and-cheese balls, or Lucky Strike's "signature dish": tomato and mozzarella s'mores (clever moniker for grilled caprese sandwiches). Lucky Strike's executive chef (executive chef! a bowling alley with an executive chef!), Bill Starbuck, will also serve up pizzas, burgers, salads, and sandwiches.Still, it makes me wonder if there's a special machine to clean the little finger holes. Otherwise, wouldn't they get moldy?Lucky Strike Lanes (at Lincoln Square), 700 Bellevue Way N.E., Suite 250, 425-453-5137. BELLEVUE; Open daily 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m.— Jess ThompsonFirst Call: A Shot of Georgetown at Calamity Jane'sBarkeep: A.J. MohrWatering Hole: Calamity Jane's, GeorgetownPick Your Poison: A long shot of Sauza Hornitos tequila and a Rainier tall-boy chaserCalamity Jane's is part hole-in-the-wall neighborhood bar, part family-friendly restaurant. The dining room is well lit and open and offers a decently varied menu. The bar is a little more grungy, with regulars swapping stories at the counter and pictogram representations of the seven dirty words you can't say on television decorating the wall.So what brings a former Rendezvous bartender to these parts? (Writer mumbled through the lime soothing her tequila-fired throat.) "It's, like, a complete change of pace from working in Belltown."Rainier? (Writer starting to feel a little tipsy.) "I think it tastes better [than PBR]."Georgetown over the thriving Belltown scene? (Tequila now making writer think she's devastatingly witty—oops, dropped the notebook.) "Everything looks like a detective novel—dirty and gritty. And that's how I like it."Really? What's your favorite detective novel? (Writer starting to get very concerned about finding bus home.) "I don't actually read much."Make sure you drink some water. The last time I did this, the bartender kept asking me what I wanted. When I explained the First Call rules, Mohr said he could make me a "froofy drink," voice dripping with judgment. Clearly that's not what he considers his thing, and I told him to go nuts. So he pulled down a bottle of tequila and unapologetically cracked a Rainier. You've got to respect that kind of honesty, even if you've never been particularly good at holding your Hornitos.— Laura Onstot

 
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