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(32)

Be Social

Ten Restaurants Seattle Needs

Guaranteed successes, from ceviche to downtown wienies.

By Jonathan Kauffman

Published on December 26, 2007

If you'd have asked me last year what restaurants Seattle needed most, I'd have told you late-night bistros. One Cafe Presse, one Tavolata, and one Quinn's later, that hole has been filled. This year, I polled several dozen staffers, freelance food writers, and friends about what this city needs now. Rejecting all the selfish "A good X restaurant in my neighborhood" responses, out of 100 suggestions I culled these 10 restaurant concepts. I guarantee all are surefire hits. No-brainers, even. Take these suggestions to your bank, show them to your loan officer, and e-mail me when you're about to open. Just don't screw them up and prove me wrong.

James O’brien

1. A restaurant specializing in Peruvian ceviche. Seattle loves raw fish. Peruvian cooks make magic with it. Why has this trend, huge in San Francisco, not taken off up north? (Bonus dish: lomo saltado, a Chinese-Peruvian stir-fry with steak and French fries.)

2. Chicago-style deep-dish pizza. Neapolitan, New York, whatever. Why no Chicago-style pizza here? The ingredients don't cost that much, you can turn tables quickly, and millions of Americans eat pizza three or more times a week.

3. A top-notch sub shop. I counted five requests from my pollsters for a shop selling East Coast hoagies with the works. Five. There are a lot of former East Coasters out there desperate for authentic subs.

4. More street food. Thanks to Hallava Falafel, Skillet Street Food, Wallingford's Rancho Bravo, and a dozen hot-dog stands for paving the way. Now Capitol Hill needs a real, Mexican-owned taco truck, downtown needs lunchtime hot-dog trucks, and Green Lake needs a knockoff of New York's Shake Shack.

5. A midpriced Slavic restaurant. This area has a big Russian community, tons of Russian/Polish/Slovak delis and piroshki bakeries, and even a pelmeni-pierogi stand in Pike Place Market. Why no sit-down restaurants?

6. A good coffee shop in southern West Seattle. Hey, Vita and Stumptown! Ever think about backing away from your Mexican standoff in Capitol Hill to expand to neighborhoods begging for you? What about you, Vivace? Lighthouse? Zoka? Southwest Seattle has a lot of love, in the form of hard cash, that it's looking to shower on a good cafe. Pizza delivery service, too.

7. A downtown Red Mill. In the business district, you can get cheap burgers and good expensive burgers, but no decently priced, kickass ones. If not Red Mill, how about a Red Mill copycat? I won't complain.

8. An artisanal, locavore ice-cream stall. As a half-dozen new frozen-yogurt shops are proving, there's a market here for cold 'n' creamy, and it shouldn't be all low-fat. There has to be at least one enterprising pastry chef out there who's sick of working with brutish hot-line cooks.

9. Real tapas. To quote Maggie Dutton, Weekly drinks columnist and fellow Spanish cuisine lover: "a true T-A-P-A-S bar, as in dirt-cheap, mostly fried, decent-to-better food, with small, cheap drinks and no seats." I'd add that your potential success depends on emphasizing both "fried" and "cheap."

10. The return of Frites. How could Seattle let the best late-night french fry stand in America get away?

show/hide comments (32) write your comment

What about a Cracker Barrel and a White Castle???
Comment by Bronston Kenney from Shoreline on Dec 22nd, 2007, 13:30 pm
I'd love to see a good restaurant that also had a small dance floor for old-fashioned "foreplay" dancing. Too many restaurants don't have a dance floor and too many dancers want to do aerobics or simply dance "for play" with no personal involvement. I find slow dancing very erotic and romantic.
Comment by Bill Donoghue from Seattle on Dec 26th, 2007, 11:48 am
A really good Jewish deli- good pickles, good Matzah ball soup and Reubens. A "Hot and Crusty" with egg and cheese sandwiches.
Comment by left coast from seattle on Dec 26th, 2007, 13:15 pm
New tapas place under construction in Ballard, 24th & Market, where Matt's Hot Dogs closed down.

REAL Chicago style pizza does NOT turn tables quickly, I grew up in Chicago and a REAL pizza place takes about a 1/2 hour to cook the pizza fresh from when it is ordered. In fact, nationwide the Uno's chain (based on the original Uno's and Due's in Chicago) has moved away from the pizze concept, it is no longer called Uno's Pizzaria and has changed name to Uno's Chicago Grill. Chicago Pizza is not the easy success you might think it is. San Francisco had a place called "Pizza Chicago", it was very good, and closed in under 3 years.

Jefe
Comment by Jefe from Seattle on Dec 26th, 2007, 14:16 pm
I think a good Scandinavian smorgasbord would be pretty appealing to true Seattlites. I don't know of one anywhere.
Comment by Just me from Seattle on Dec 26th, 2007, 18:34 pm
not to brag, but regarding item number 6 in Ten Restaurants Seattle Needs, we are already here! WE serve Lighthouse, Mighty-O doughnuts, Essential croissants, cool 1904 house, live music! what more?
C & P Coffee Company, 5612 California Ave SW 206-933-3125 www.candpcoffee.com
Comment by cameron moores from west seattle on Dec 27th, 2007, 06:59 am
We're originally from Miami and my husband's family is Peruvian, and there's tons of Peruvian restaurants in Miami -- so a REAL Peruvian restaurant in this area would be fabulous!! There's one in Kirkland, but it's "new Andean cuisine" - way too fussy. I also agree with the sub shop - I can't find a decent cheese steak or a hero. And the only thing resembling a NY pizza here is Pagliacci's. Send someone to Lombardi's in NYC and learn how it's done!
Comment by Christine from Bothell on Dec 27th, 2007, 09:47 am
Regarding #6, South West Seattle is fully covered by C&P Coffee shop (6000 block of California Ave). They serve Lighthouse coffee with shots pulled with an expert touch. I believe that Cam (one of the proprietors) actually honed her craft at Lighthouse.

Ya'll need to do your homework on West Seattle!
Comment by Brandon N from West Seattle on Dec 27th, 2007, 12:01 pm
a) Re: chicago pizza -- you may be right about the turnaround time, but not about its success in the Bay Area. Right now there's an explosion of Chicago style pizza places (from the long-loved Zachary's to Little Star and Patxis). Also, re West Seattle: C&P is practically in the Junction. I'm talking South Southwest Seattle -- Highland Park, South Park, White Center.
Comment by Jonathan K on Dec 27th, 2007, 12:35 pm
You guys are missing the most obvious one.

IN-N-OUT BURGER!
Comment by Josh from Redmond on Dec 27th, 2007, 13:28 pm
How South do you have to go in West Seattle?

You can argue over "real" but South of C&P there is also Ladro, which is real in my book. Tully's is there too, which is semi-real. Sbucks, which is not real, is there and, damn there's espresso in the Thriftway. More coffee in a 5 block radius needed?

Maybe the author has a different geo locat in mind.
Comment by cal on Dec 27th, 2007, 13:43 pm
Sweet Tomatoes. Can't understand why these are not around. The restaurants on other cities that I've been to are always packed with people and the food is great!
Comment by FCP on Dec 27th, 2007, 14:58 pm
SWEET TOMATOES. That's a no brainer.
Comment by FCP on Dec 27th, 2007, 15:09 pm
There is a great Peruvian restaurant in downtown Kirkland - Mixtura. They have beautiful ceviche dishes.
Comment by Suzanne from Bellevue on Dec 27th, 2007, 16:50 pm
Coastal cities are the coolest because they tend to draw a wide variety of people from all over the country wanting something similar to the comfort foods of home, however, New York and Chicago pizzas have been done! Let's talk Minnesota. There is a new pizzeria in Ballard called Zayda Buddy�s that is offering some pretty righteous beers (Grainbelt Premium & Leinenkugel�s come to mind) from the Midwest and a particular style of thin crust pizza famously cut in squares. Chicago is awesome and New York gets around, but I think it�s time to branch out and try something new in the Northwest.
Comment by the Enthusiast from Seattle on Dec 27th, 2007, 17:36 pm
We already have at least two of the things on your list!

2.Chicago Style Pizza? Delfino's has been baking amazing pies for almost fifteen years now. They may be located in the UVillage, but the food is still excellent.

3. Top Notch Subs? Did you ever hear the Other Coast Cafe in Ballard? They specialize in east coast sandwiches and now they even have a location downtown.
Comment by David from Seattle on Dec 27th, 2007, 22:16 pm
This is in response to #6 on your list. There is a GREAT coffee shop in "South" West Seattle- C&P Coffee Company. They consistently serve some of the best coffee in Seattle, which happens to come from Lighthouse Roasters, C&P has a great atmosphere, the pastries are from local bakeries, and the staff couldn't be nicer!

I lived on Capitol Hill for over five years and visted Cafe Vita on a daily basis. Cafe Vita is excellent, but I must say, I prefer C&P over Cafe Vita any day!
Comment by nicoled from W. Seattle on Dec 28th, 2007, 07:21 am
You've left off Japanese Ramen. The only one I've found is Samurai next Uwjiamaya in the ID and it's not that good. Being an LA transplant I'm constantly amazed there's none here. And I agree with "Left Coast" on the Jewish deli as well. And while I'm here- a Carl's Jr please!
Comment by Mattson from Ballard on Dec 28th, 2007, 12:09 pm
There are several places to get Lighthouse coffee in West Seattle (as well as at least one place that serves Stumptown). Just because the shop isn't run by the roaster doesn't mean they can't make good coffee. For professionally pulled Lighthouse, C&P on California is the best.
Comment by atemybuick on Dec 28th, 2007, 12:50 pm
As one who lives near Westwood Village and the Home Depot down thataways, this it the neighborhood that could really use a non-Starbucks roaster, not the Gold Coast of California Aveneu, which is up to its eyeballs in beans.
Comment by Seely on Dec 28th, 2007, 16:13 pm
As a born and bred Chicagoan, I give Delfino's a thumbs-up. It's just a bit less greasy than your typical Chicago pie, and doesn't have the solid-slab-o-sausage goodness that you might find at a Gino's East, but it definitely satisfies the occasional craving.

What Seattle is really missing (and most cities are as well) is an honest-to-goodness Chicago-style Italian Beef Sandwich. And no, I've tried some of the stronger claimants in the area, but they're way off the mark.
Comment by Michael on Dec 28th, 2007, 20:27 pm
Stumptown Coffee from Oregon recently opened their first two locations in Seattle on Capitol Hill. It sounds pathetically ridiculous - but need it in the downtown core. I had my first experience last month in Portland. Coffee drinker? Ha! Try Stumptown.
Comment by a levine from Lynnwood on Dec 29th, 2007, 07:43 am
Ithink the employees of C&P Coffee need to quit cruising the internet and get back to work. You made your point, C&P is great coffee, but the 6000 block of california is NOT south west seattle. And not to be sacreligious, but do we really need another coffee shop. I love coffee but they are as plentiful as thai restaurants, which I also like, but enough already. I totally agree about the jewish deli though. How great would that be, pastrami, real rye bread, pickles!
Comment by Betty Rubble from Seattle on Dec 29th, 2007, 13:37 pm
Wait, Samurai not that good? Are we talking about the same restaurant here? It easily beats any I've tried in San Francisco or Los Angeles, and the seasonal flavors (in particular, an amazing yuzu-shoyu broth they had this past Spring) are compelling. For an everyday bowl, I like the shoyu-tonkotsu samurai armor bowl -- not as insanely rich as the straight tonkotsu, with firm noodle.

If you want something a little less traditional in flavor, Mamasan in Bellevue has odd hours but quite decent ramen. Their tonkotsu is heavy on the ginger and what I suspect is sake in the broth, but very tasty.
Comment by Michael on Dec 29th, 2007, 13:59 pm
I agree w/ commenter #16: Other Coast Cafe has the best subs and deli sandwiches in the city. Both the Ballard and downtown locations are superb.
Comment by Lulu from Seattle on Dec 29th, 2007, 21:56 pm
Chicago style pizza?

Humbug!

Nothing but cheese. And talk about overpriced!

I had it recently--in Chicago--at the famous Giordano's.

NOT impressed.

Scratch that one from the list.

We don't need the extra heart attacks.
Comment by John K. Spear from Bellevue on Dec 30th, 2007, 12:22 pm
About #6: The Weekly Food folks *have* done their WS research, and here's what some of us sampled had to say: we live at 35th and Holden and have to drive to get coffee. That's lame. C&P is a great place, but that is NOT southern West Seattle. Ladro is also great, but is a good half-hour walk uphill to get home (fine when it's not raining--but lately, when is that?). Bird on a Wire is fantastic, but too far to walk and too small to encourage much hanging around. Even Rozella is good, but White Center's a haul, too...The point is, I think, that whether you're after Stumptown or just a decent coffee in a place with a pleasant vibe, there's room for improvement (i.e. several notches up from Carosello) in the city�s southwest.
Comment by hem from Seattle on Dec 30th, 2007, 14:27 pm
Stellar pizza in Georgetown is similar to deep dish chicago style pizza and it's sooooooo good! http://www.stellarpizza.com/menu.htm
Comment by Jodi Losek from Seattle on Dec 30th, 2007, 17:36 pm
A decent Korean restaurant within Downtown would rock so much and I don't mean another tofu stew chain or teriyucki joint...Grilled meats, spicy, fragrant stews, lots of fresh banchan and homemade kimchi, please.
Comment by sy from kent on Jan 10th, 2008, 12:03 pm
I will definitely agree with Sweet Tomatoes as a must-have.

Another one that would satisfy several requests is/was called Miami Subs. They did good-great cheesesteaks (depending on the place, it varied). They also did a nice assortment of fried munchies and beer, they were also open late.

I haven't seen one since the one near me closed down a couple years before I left Florida.
Comment by Mathi Bear from Bellevue on Jan 10th, 2008, 16:42 pm
Mamasan's food in Bellevue is lousy and they know it,the place is for japanese businessmen hence the name, the delicasy there are the hostesses,order a dish at night and you may *ahem*grope and do as you please with them. the top girl there is Nana or more commonly known as Michiko,she will meet you anytime of the day anywhere,so if your lonley she will tell yoou a story with a happy ending ~_^ in return you have to go there and order a dish. the main course there is the "service" and not the food.so if you need a girlfriend for an hour or a few minutes Mamasans in Bellevue is your place. If your hungry for food and not erokabu (courtesans of loose moral values) or caba cho (caberet queen or readily available women for you disposal) then better take you appetite somewhere else, I really dont know what Micheal or whoever suggested Mamasans in Bellevue was thinking.

- James
Comment by James from Bellevue on Feb 2nd, 2008, 13:52 pm
How about real Cuban food? Not "Cuban-Fusion", not "Faux Cuban", not "Everything-South-of-Miami-We'll-Throw-Some-Jerk-On-It-and-Serve-It-With-a-Mojito", but REAL Cuban food.
Comment by Lourdes from Seattle on Mar 5th, 2008, 14:53 pm

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National Features >

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By Lauren Smiley

Be Social

Ten Restaurants Seattle Needs

Guaranteed successes, from ceviche to downtown wienies.

By Jonathan Kauffman

Published on December 26, 2007

James O’brien