Beer, Turkey, and Pilgrims

This year I'm giving thanks that I don't have to write one of those compulsory "What wine goes with Thanksgiving?" columns. I get so sick of reading the same regurgitated tips. To me, a gluttonous meal in honor of the Pilgrims deserves an appropriate beverage, one to sip or guzzle as personal tendencies allow. When I think of the epic turkey-day meal, my brain conjures large tankards of rich ale, the kind I imagine the Mayflower passengers might have enjoyed.

But which beers? When pairing beer with food, I think of the crisp hop notes of a lager as being akin to white wines and the malt-dominated flavors associated with most ales as approximating the impact of red wines. But it's not that simple. Hops have a bitterness that I consider a stand-in for wine's acidity because it has a similar tongue-cleaning effect; hops will help cut through the heavy flavors of a mushroom gravy, sausage stuffing, or Yorkshire pudding. However, malt is essential to complement all the nutty, browned-butter flavors lurking on the holiday table. Without enough malt, your beer will taste sharp and cheaply dressed. The key is balance, with plenty of impact.

Go for a beer that's amber or light brown in style. I think an ESB—which typically has more pronounced malt to go along with its strong bitter flavors—is a natural for Thanksgiving. Pacific Rim's Admiral ESB will make my table. It's a hop-versus-malt smackdown whose every sip is a palate cleanser. Ales like Hale's Red Menace and Big Time's Atlas Amber also hit the three notes I want in a turkey-friendly beer. Both of these beers have a little burnt-sugar sweetness to pair with the heavily salted meal, enough citrus notes to add a little lift to the food, and toast—well, it rhymes with roast.

As long as they're hopped enough, darker beers will also work for the Thanksgiving table. Baron Brewing's Schwarzbier, a dark-brown lager with a sweet-savory aromatic character and a crisp finish, is bred for a banquet. The decadently brown, toffee-like Boundary Bay Harvest Ale has some intense bittering without the usual aromatics of hops. A bit jarring on its own, this seasonal ale almost requires a feast.

For freshness and ease of service, I try to get beer straight from the source, in growlers; just about every local brewery offers a filling service. Bonus: You can taste before you pick. If you don't have the time, most groceries carry a decent selection of local brews in 22-ounce bottles. If beer bottles aren't dear enough for your table, gently pour their contents into a few pitchers and set out your wine glasses. You'd be surprised at the complex aromas that waft out of a session beer if you drink it out of a slightly bowled glass.

Pouring beer like you would wine also helps moderate your guests' intake, since beer generally contains less alcohol. Your company will thank you for keeping them from a turkey coma and helping them get home safely, which is a better bit of karma than what the Pilgrims incurred when they introduced beer to the Indians.

mdutton@seattleweekly.com