Thanh Vi

Tucked into the "Asian Plaza" at the intersection of 12th Avenue and Jackson Street, Thanh Vi (or, according to its sign, The Vietnamese Restaurant) is hidden in plain sight. Filled with glass-topped tables and glossy paintings of what look like the Swiss Alps, this unpresupposing spot is crowded with families working their way through enormous platters and bowls of good, simple food. Delectable options include bún, rice noodles with lettuce, basil, bean sprouts, carrots, and an assortment of meaty toppings, from skewers of nicely charbroiled shrimp to lemongrass-marinated beef, all served with the house fish sauce ($5.50 small; $7.75 large). The khay platter is piled high with all of the above, accompanied by a stack of rice wrappers ($7.50; $7.95). After softening the translucent circles in the bowl of hot water that comes with them, pile in the fillings. Fill one wrapper, say, with a portion of egg roll, lettuce, and basil and another with sugar-caned shrimp, rice noodles, and bean sprouts, all doused with hoisin and spicy Sriracha sauce. It's a lot to eat for not a lot of money. Some assembly required. ADRIANA GRANT