Red Line

Red Line, a coffee/sandwich shop beckoning to you from the top of Denny Way, plans to get a piece of the city's hot pizza action with the recent introduction of a pizza menu (available after 5 p.m.). Red Line co-founder Katy Carroll used to work for Pagliacci and, now that enough time has passed to avoid messy legal complications, she is serving up her unique version of 'za. See for yourself how it compares to fresh-from-the-oven slices from Tutta Bella, Via Tribunali, Mioposto (new in Mount Baker), Juliano's (new on Capitol Hill), Zagi's, Madame K's, and others. The menu offers nine 12-inch pies, with varieties such as Hot Hot Hot (spicy Italian sausage, hot peppers, and pepperoncini) and asparagus and prosciutto (a seasonal special). We tried the arugula-topped Rocket Pie ($9.95) and the Pesto with tomatoes ($10.95); I'd heartily recommend both to vegetarians who dig thin crust. Supposedly, Red Line's pizza oven runs hotter than most—dough comes out crispy, yet retains some airy softness. The cheese blend was zesty and—surprisingly—not too rich-tasting. (Red Line uses mozzarella, provolone, fontina, and parmesan.) The sauce on the Rocket, made from imported Italian tomatoes, however, could've been more abundant; it seemed only lightly brushed on. Eat dinner near a window and watch the action outside or bring a book and read alongside the college students who sit by the eatery's wall-sized chalkboard. 1525 E. Olive Way, 206-328-9559 CAPITOL HILL

 
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