Serves: lunch and dinner. 1919 Post Alley, 206-443-3241. PIKE PLACE MARKET $$ www.thepinkdoor.net
REMO BORRACCHINI'S
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Dining Guide 2006
Introduction
Around the world in one Seattle day: 116 of our favorite ethnic restaurants.
North America
Nell's, El Rincon, Northlake Tavern, and more.
South America
Mixtura and Copacabana.
Africa
Mesob and more.
Europe
From Bandeleone to Zaina.
Asia
Sushi, soups, sweets, and savories.
Australia
Would you believe only one made our list?
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Founded in 1922 by an immigrant couple from Italy, Borracchini's is known primarily for its custom cakes and baked goods. But if you don't wander past the frosted birthday cake counter, you'll miss two-thirds of what makes Remo's so versatile and indispensable. It's chock-full of jars of native Mediterranean condiments, cheeses, sparkling water, and wines, so full-scale shopping is entirely possible for those with a palate that veers sharply toward Southern Europe. And a fresh grilled salami-and-provolone panini sandwich will set you back a meager $1.49 at the deli counter. Evidently, Remo's prices many of its items as though it's still 1922, which is a welcome respite from Seattle's annoying "It Town" inflationary curve. MIKE SEELY
Serves: breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 2307 Rainier Ave. S., 206-325-1550. RAINIER VALLEY. 4737 California Ave. S.W., 206-935-8944. WEST SEATTLE $ www.nowcake.com
SALUMI
You no longer have to trek down to the border between Pioneer Square and the ID and stand in line to purchase Armandino Batali's world-class cured meats, but the heavenly sandwiches—homemade meatball, culatello, oxtail—are still worth sending the office assistant for. But the unique glory of Salumi, to be enjoyed only on-site, belongs to the daily sit-down specials. Each is a little masterwork of country-style Italian cooking: bean and vegetable soups, lasagne, meat cannelloni, and more, perfect for devouring at the communal table in the back of the shop. There's nothing nicer than chowing down at Salumi, even if it is only open for lunch Tuesday through Friday, nothing except taking a new friend there for the first time and watching their eyes light up. ROGER DOWNEY
Serves: lunch and dinner (by special arrangement). 309 First Ave. S., 206-621-8772. PIONEER SQUARE $-$$ www.salumicuredmeats.com
THE SPANISH TABLE
If you aren't living in a sunny place, at least you can eat like you are. The food at the Spanish Table is simple and evocative of the Iberian Peninsula: piquant gazpacho (in season); sweet piquillo peppers; queso manchego, a robust hard cheese; and my personal favorite, tortilla español. The latter is a potato omelet, but that's like saying a madeleine is a cookie. How Spanish chefs take such simple ingredients as potatoes, onion, and eggs, and produce such a flavorful dish is a great mystery. Contemplate it as you sit at the deli's counter, eating while surrounded by the gorgeous ceramics that are the store's main line of business. GEORGE HOWLAND JR.
Serves: breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 1427 Western Ave., 206-682-2827. DOWNTOWN $ www.spanishtable.com
VIA TRIBUNALI
Dust off your Italian dictionary, 'cause you'll need it to navigate Via Tribunali's menu. Oh, and bring the crossword puzzle, because there's usually a wait for a table and they don't take reservations. You'll have plenty of time to check out the high- ceilinged place (where imposing wrought-iron chandeliers hang) and the easy-on-the-eyes servers. Once seated in one of the church-pew-like booths or at a table, get the piazza Dante with provola (smoked cheese), tomatoes, arugula, and prosciutto crudo, or the quattro Stagioni topped with prosciutto, salami, mushrooms, and mozzarella. All ingredients for the pizzas are imported—these are traditional, thin-crusted, wood-fired pies much like what you would find in Naples. A smattering of important looking symbols at the bottom of the menu says as much, we think. MOLLY LORI
Serves: dinner. 913 E. Pike St., 206-322-9234. CAPITOL HILL $$
VIOS
Step through Vios' door and leave Capitol Hill altogether. Inside, find a European marketplace, deli, and restaurant that'll have you longing for the Grecian coast depicted in the overhead lanterns illuminating old European postcards. By day, Vios is a marketplace and deli, serving exquisite sandwiches and salads. The seared tuna sandwich features perhaps the most perfectly seasoned, crisp-on-the-outside, tender-on-the-inside fish you'll ever taste, accompanied by tomatoes, capers, and mint between slices of an extra-fresh baguette. Other lunch offerings include chicken or lamb gyros, an eggplant sandwich, a meatball sandwich, and an enticing variety of salads like orzo, gigantes beans with vegetables, and an incredible sweet-potato-apple-feta medley. Come evening, Vios offers full restaurant fare, including dinner plates of lamb chops marinated in thyme, sumac, and garlic; several enticing Greek-inspired casseroles; French lentils with duck comfit; pork tenderloin over gigantes; and chicken souvlaki. House wines are under $30; many of the patrons are under 6. EMILY PAGE
Serves: lunch and dinner. 903 19th Ave. E., 206-329-3236. CAPITOL HILL $-$$
