Serves: lunch and dinner. 12343 Lake City Way N.E., 206-362-6999. LAKE CITY $
THAN BROTHERS
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Dining Guide 2006
Introduction
Around the world in one Seattle day: 116 of our favorite ethnic restaurants.
North America
Nell's, El Rincon, Northlake Tavern, and more.
South America
Mixtura and Copacabana.
Africa
Mesob and more.
Europe
From Bandeleone to Zaina.
Asia
Sushi, soups, sweets, and savories.
Australia
Would you believe only one made our list?
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Those with addictive personalities should proceed with caution: This highly addictive food fiend recently went through a delirious spell of visiting Than Brothers pho restaurant at least once per week for months on end. Of course, there are more difficult and pricey addictions; a big, warm portion of Than Brothers' elixir will only set you back about $5. Here's more: A large bowl of perfectly seasoned and scented broth stuffed with noodles comes alongside a plate of prosciutto-thin beef (or chicken or tofu, if you must) and a heaping variety of garnishes. This is interactive eating at its best. A little basil here, a squirt of lime there, and as many bean sprouts as you can fit, if you know what's good for you. The real hero of the meal, though, is the broth. Deceptively simple in appearance, this beef broth has complex flavor and dimension—a writer might even want to employ wine-tasting descriptors, like "redolent of cinnamon," but that would be pretentious, right? Of course, this being a mere blurb, there's no room to write about the divine cream puffs that come with your pho, or the can't-be-missed cafe sua da, the "French style" coffee with condensed milk. Consider this a tease. KERRY MURPHY
Serves: lunch and dinner. Nine locations (see Web site) including 516 Broadway E., 206-568-7218. CAPITOL HILL $ www.thanbrothers.com
ZAINA
Experience Jerusalem's culinary delights without the plane travel. Even as they have expanded to two locations downtown, these unpretentious, affordable, order-at-the- counter restaurants have kept their high- quality food consistent. Creamy hummus, rich falafel, smoky baba ghanoush, savory lentil soup, piles of roasted vegetables, and fragrant saffron rice—everything is good here. The Palestinian husband-and-wife owners are welcoming to regulars and newcomers alike. Both locations, one at the northern edge of Pioneer Square and the other across from Macy's, have tables snuggled up against the windows for people watching and Arabic pop music blasting from the sound system. GEORGE HOWLAND JR.
Serves: lunch and dinner. 108 Cherry St., 206-624-5687. PIONEER SQUARE. 1619 Third Ave., 206-770-0813. DOWNTOWN $
