It can be quite unnerving to have brunch at the place where you downed far too many cocktails the night before. But despite the lingering scent of cigarettes and spilled tequila shots, breakfast at Cafe Venus/Mars Bar is the perfect way to cure a weekend hangover.
Heather Logue
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Bars all over the city offer greasy breakfasts as an antidote to the illicit activities of the previous night. Usually you can expect some sort of egg scramble (often pale and squishy), undercooked hash browns, and lukewarm toast; it's really not kosher to complain, considering you're the one who decided to have breakfast at the very establishment you just got smashed at. Thanks to Cafe Venus' new brunch, you no longer have to grin and bear the mediocrity of the typical bar breakfast. Because now there's one that's actually damn good.
The atmosphere of Venus/Mars is undeniably soothing after a rough night on the town. Venus' interior is cozy: Booths line the walls of its small, colorful room, and the thick smell of breakfast cooking hangs in the air. Sunlight streams through the windows, and a cheerful waitstaff bustles around pouring coffee and clearing plates. You're welcome to sit in the adjacent bar and puff on that lone cigarette in your pack from last night, but there's no smoking at Venus during brunch. Once you're nestled in a chair with a steaming cup of coffee in front of you, you can scour the menu in peace.
At first glance, it seems small, with only a few egg dishes and other normal breakfast grub. Upon closer inspection, though, everything is tempting, from the heavenly biscuits and gravy ($5; $9.50 with sausage) to the homemade granola with milk or yogurt ($4). My companions and I tried a variety of items, ordering eggs Florentine ($8), biscuits and gravy, a tofu scramble for the vegan of the group ($7.50), and one of the specials, a salmon and cream cheese scramble (specials range from $8 to $10). If your hangover has subsided, you may also want to order a Bloody Mary ($5), mimosa ($5.50), or—for the truly hard-core—"Eclipse the Hangover," a shot of whatever cheap liquor put you in your present hungover state, with a $1.50 beer as a chaser. The mimosas at Venus are larger than life and served in pint glasses; unfortunately, so are the Bloody Marys, whose flavor and disturbing, salsalike consistency soon become tiresome. Don't fret, though—there's nothing disturbing about the food, which arrives beautifully presented and garnished with slices of decorative fruit.
Our biscuits were fresh, warm, and smothered in vegetarian gravy that was thick without being gluey and perfectly seasoned. The tofu scramble, satisfying though not very exciting, was served with perfectly round, seasoned potatoes that tasted best when squished up with a fork and mashed into the rest of the meal. The salmon-scramble special definitely lived up to its name; its generous helpings of fish, cream cheese, and eggs intermingled for a lively but not overpowering taste that were perfect for a lazy fall morning—all right, afternoon. Yet the most delicious thing on our table was the eggs Florentine, which arrived steaming hot in a fancy bowl. The eggs and cheese suited both the potatoes served on the side and the biscuit that came with the dish (you can also ask for a scone). This filling, cheese-laden dish is served in a large enough portions that you can overlook the numerous bites your friends are going to steal.
With delicious comfort food and excellent drink deals, Cafe Venus/Mars Bar has figured out the art of weekend brunching. Best of all, the cheery servers embrace the crowd without passing any judgment—even if they did see you dancing on the tables only the night before.
hlogue@seattleweekly.com
Cafe Venus/Mars Bar, 609 Eastlake Ave. E., 206-624-4516, EASTLAKE. 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m. Mon.–Fri.; 9 a.m.–2 p.m. and 6 p.m.–2 a.m. Sat.–Sun. www.cafevenus.com.
