Calypso Caribbean Kitchen

Historical colonialism is what it is, and where it's given us culinary riches, well, at least something good came of the big guy taking advantage of the little guy. Case in point: a dish called keshi yena at Calypso. It will occur to you, as you order a jerk dish with a side of plantains or the nightly fish special to follow this wonderful appetizer, that there is something sort of strange about tropical-climate cultures creating a dish comprised mostly of Edam cheese. As it turns out, we have the cooks of Curacao as well as the Dutch settlers to thank for this fondue-esque indulgence: tiny shrimp and raisins baked into a round of Edam cheese and served with small toasts. In Curacao, it's a special holiday dish, but don't wait for a special occasion to visit this neat, tidy house-turned-restaurant in Maple Leaf. 7917 Roosevelt Way N.E., 206-525-5118. MAPLE LEAF

 
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