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502 S. King St., 206-624-2611. CHINATOWN/ INTERNATIONAL DISTRICT $

Salumi

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Alki Crab and Fish Company

1660 Harbor Ave. S.W.
Seattle, WA 98126

Category: Restaurant > Seafood

Region: West Seattle

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2005 Dining Guide

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When Salumi's salamis started showing up on menus all over town, I thought for a minute that lunch at the tiny East Coast–esque home base would never be the same. Nonsense. Sure, you can have Armandino Batali's charcuterie on just about any antipasti plate in Belltown, and for a while it was even available on Pagliacci's pizzas, but there's just nothing like the real thing, baby. Thankfully, people are still showing up in droves and forming a line out the door, all for the pleasure of crowding in around the communal table and trading elbow room for artisan meatball sandwiches and lovely, old-world Italian soups and side dishes. I don't know that everyone necessarily loves the density of that lunchroom, but I do; I love that reserved Seattleites are forced to get cozy with their neighbors for at least half an hour or so, and I love that it's handmade, craftsman fare that makes them do it. LAURA CASSIDY

ALSO SERVES: dinner. 309 Third Ave. S., 206-621-8772. PIONEER SQUARE $ www.salumicuredmeats.com

Smarty Pants

Not too long ago, it was really hard to find a good sandwich in this town. I bet Tim Ptak came up with the idea for this Georgetown hangout then, during the sandwich drought of the late '90s. I don't know, though. That's just a guess. I do know that his primary mission was to serve food—good food—past 8 p.m.; doing that in the artiest, least populated, and most alienated hood in town only makes his mission more noble. While I'm willing to give Ptak his propers for following through on that late-night mission, I'm old-fashioned in some ways, and I like Smarty Pants at lunchtime. The Lil' Brat, Ptak's Reuben, is fantastic—and even less of a guilty pleasure when made with vegetarian Field Roast, another G'town specialty. The Gringa (pulled pork that's been infused with lime) is another favorite and the house-made salsa is wonderful. LAURA CASSIDY

ALSO SERVES: dinner. 6017 Airport Way, 206-762-4777. GEORGETOWN $ www.smartypantsseattle.com

Spanish Table

As a kid, I was never big on candy stores. Luckily, this Spanish food shop and deli lets me make up for lost time. What's the salad today? (Saffron rice with caperberries and red bell peppers is a favorite of mine.) Is there gazpacho yet? (It's seasonal.) How about now? Will the bocadillo de tortilla (potato-omelet sandwich) taste as good as it did five years ago at a little corner cafe in Madrid? Besides otherworldly soups, sandwiches, and salads, the Spanish Table sells membrillo (quince paste), saffron, queso manchego (Spain's signature hard cheese), and other staples of the Iberian kitchen, so beware: Lunch trips can often result in a pound of cheese accompanying you back to the office. NEAL SCHINDLER

1427 Western Ave., 206-682-2827. DOWNTOWN $ www.spanishtable.com

Sunlight Cafe

Because we're celebrating such wonderful things here, I won't go into the sad circumstances that first brought my family and me to the Sunlight Cafe in Roosevelt, but suffice it to say that the good will and great food cheered us up when it seemed like nothing could. The waitstaff and cooks aren't just working here, they seem to be working toward something, and I'd say it's community—in the Berkeley food revolution sense of the word. The vegetarian menu means mindfulness is a top priority, and you feel like every last pair of hands in the place is taking its responsibilities seriously. It feels good to be here, and with a steaming bowl of curried split pea soup and a hearty nut burger in front of you, it feels good to eat here, too. LAURA CASSIDY

ALSO SERVES: breakfast and dinner. 6403 Roosevelt Way N.E., 206-522-9060. ROOSEVELT $

Vios Cafe and Marketplace

I knew this Greek restaurant–cum– European market would be a hit when it opened a year ago. You walk in and the space, arrayed with long communal tables and a children's play area, simply teems with good cooking and the smells that go with it—garlic, olive oil, grilling meats. At lunch, there are pulled pork sandwiches with green apple and apricot chutney, an amazing lamb burger, and luscious, fatty seared tuna belly on a crusty baguette. The salads at Vios are blessed with terrifically fresh ingredients and loads of vinegar and fruity olive oil. But really the thing that makes Vios such a hit is that owner Thomas Soukakos lavishes so much attention on customers— and especially their children—that you feel like you just walked into your own home, except the food is better. Vios also has an excellent deli and a great selection of Mediterranean grocery items, charcuterie, and wine. And then there's dinner, but that's for another time. PHILIP DAWDY

ALSO SERVES: breakfast and dinner. 903 19th Ave. E., 206-329-3236. CAPITOL HILL $

Zagi's Pizza Ristorante

It really should be easier to get your hands on good by-the-slice pizza around here, and while the immense size of Zagi's super slices doesn't necessarily make it altogether easy (unless your hands are immense, too), you have to love them for selling pizza one slice at a time way up north. Those on foot—and especially former New Yorkers—will appreciate the way these slices can be folded in half and consumed while multitasking. It's no surprise that co-owners Ryon Weber and Steven Stehlik know a thing or two about mobility; their whole operation used to be ambulatory. Ballardites must love that they've settled Sliceland up there. Oh sure, you can get whole pies—and subs, calzones, pastas, salads, and soups, too, but since Seattle is relatively short on on-the-go options, you'll want to make a mental note of this relatively new and really excellent outlier. LAURA CASSIDY

ALSO SERVES: dinner. 2408 N.W. 80th St., 206-706-0750. BALLARD $ www.zagispizza.com

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