Abbondanza Pizzeria

Seems the food winds have turned our minds toward pizza once again—more specifically, New York–style pizza and authentically Italian pizza. Taking equal inspiration from both is a little unsuspecting joint in West Seattle. While Abbondanza's Margherita can't really compete with the newbie Neapolitan ovens in town (the mozzarella is a little too dense and the basil far too scant), the portobello pizza is absolutely divine. First, you'll have to get over the lack of red sauce; it's not there, and you won't miss it. Now, notice the absolute thinness of the crisp crust, the lovely bubbles of char, the wonderful way it graciously carries the toppings without competing for your attention. And the toppings! Perfect piles of deliciously marinated, grilled, and chopped mushroom are metered out across the pie along with breaded, paper-thin slices of eggplant. Dollops of goat cheese add to the perfect tangy, creamy texture and taste, and the minimally olive-oiled crust allows that every bite is a rich explosion of distinct flavor. 6503 California Ave. S.W., 206-935-8989. WEST SEATTLE