FROM CURRIES TO KEBABS: RECIPES FROM THE INDIAN SPICE TRAIL

My friend Ann grew up in Seattle and lives in Ann Arbor yet she cooks a biryani that's a South Asian taste sensation. Ann's secret: Author Madhur Jaffrey. In England, good Indian food is available on nearly every corner, but if you want the authentic item in the U.S. you still need to cook it at home.

Along with Julie Sahni and film producer Ismail Merchant, Madhur Jaffrey pioneered Indian food writing as you know it today. This hefty illustrated tome is as much history text as cook book. Its 100 recipes and all too pithy introduction attempt to trace the epic journey of curry, and its close relative, the kebab, from the sub-continent to such far flung outposts of culinary culture as Vietnam, Indonesia, the West Indies and Africa. And don't forget Britain, Canada and the U.S.an uphill task.

But with each turn of the page, Jaffrey rises more and more to the occasion. Her recipes are user friendly, the spices may be easily found at Trader Joe's or PCC, and on close observation there are culinary jewels here you won't find anywhere else. And thanks to Jaffray's introduction to each recipe, not only will you enjoy your dinner, you will know the origins of each dish, its cultural quirks and historical lore. Hasan Jafri

food@seattleweekly.com