Restaurants D-M

Life Is Sweet:
DOLCE VITA
People come to Dolce Vita to be reminded of the exquisite tastes of Italy: espresso, doughnuts, and amazing gelato. All flavorings are made in-store and balance traditional with contemporary flavors. Italian standards such as straciatella menta (mint chocolate flake), rice, and strawberry are set alongside house creations like mojito (lime, rum, and mint), Reese's Pieces peanut butter cup, and cucumber lemon basil. The emphasis is on seasonal flavors: In the summer they'll use boxes of raspberries to make just one batch of raspberry sorbetto. They're open till midnight Friday and Saturday, so stop in late and get an espresso expertly made on the La Marzocca machine straight from Italy. The smiling help doesn't mind giving eight or 10 tastes, so take time to deliberate between the lemon ginger and the lemon custard. As you consume your cup of one or two (or, ideally, three or four) scoops, visualizations of Italy come rushing forward with every intense, decadent spoonful. R.B .

2123 Queen Anne Ave. N., 206-284-3460. QUEEN ANNE $

Eat to the Beat:
EASY STREET RECORDS & CAFɠ
Where rockers go to eat to the beat:
Musos and rock geeks have found an all-purpose Shangri-la at Easy Street Records ever since the much-loved retailer's West Seattle location began doubling as an eatery in 2001. While the space originally took its concept and inspiration from Starbucks pairing with Barnes & Noble, Easy Street offers a more laid-back charm with its open-air Euro-styled caf鮠A favorite of the city's rock stars and Westside hipsters, Easy Street's two-story setup is an airy space where diners, shoppers, and staff seamlessly mingle. (Appropriately, part of the store's restaurant area also doubles as its stage, a place where both local and national artists regularly ply their trade.) Although it has a few celebrity monikered items, this is no generic "themed" eateryless Hard Rock Caf頴han hard-core diner, Easy Street's menu offers a bevy of breakfast and lunch choices that prove consistently solid grub. Add to that a wide selection of coffee/espresso choices, as well as a fully stocked beer and wine bar, and you've got the makings of a perfect time whether you're trying to salt last night's hangover with a hearty meal or just browse for hot U.K. singles. Whatever your needs, Easy Street's m鬡nge of food, booze, and rock 'n' roll will keep you entertained for hours. B.M.

4559 California Ave. S.W., 206-938-3279. WEST SEATTLE $

Sushi-Free:
EN SEATTLE
If it took you a long time to get over the weirdness of Regis and Kelly (where's Kathy Lee?) or the suddenly soloand adultJoe McIntire (where are his NKOTB brothas?), then you may be mildly traumatized by En Seattle. It's a Japanese restaurant without sushi. Where, you might ask, is the nigiri? Yes, this is revolutionary, and might take some getting used to, but there is no nigiri in the housenot in this house. What you will find here is a long, pleasant list of "homemade-style" modern Japanese dishes. There's a lunch menu and a dinner menu, but a person can do well on the starters list alone. Order enough starters to go around the table and some drinks from the full bar, andif it's a weekend nightenjoy live jazz or a house DJ. Try the crispy black tiger shrimp ball and the breaded, skewered vegetables, fish, and chicken with spicy mustard dipping sauce. The diced, uncooked red tuna, avocado, and celery salad is supremely good, as is the agedashi (golden tofu squares in a tasty fish broth). K.M.

2429 Second Ave., 206-770-0250. BELLTOWN $$

Sexy Mexie:
GALERIAS
Not all great Mexican food comes from an unassuming roadside taco stand or a hole-in-the-wall take-out jointthe papaya-colored walls, airy muslin scrims, and embossed menus of Galerias' spacious new Broadway location complement a menu that is nouveau without being precious, vivid yet still refined. From the crisp, confetti-colored chips and piquant green salsa to the fantastically rich desserts, almost everything on the menu succeeds. It's hard to go wrong with the basicsenchiladas done four ways, chiles rellenos, a just-right mole saucebut the braver items are just as rewarding. The few vegetarian items the menu offers are all delicious, but carnivores will thank the humble cow for Filete Uruapan (broiled skirt steak with sweetly mild avocado sauce) and Dolores Olmedo (spinach cr갥 bundles with cactus and grilled steak in poblano sauce). If nothing else, margaritas only slightly smaller than a child's head will pull in even the most reluctant gringos. L.G.

611 Broadway Ave. E., 206-322-5757. CAPITOL HILL $

Top Cock:
EL GALLITO
Every year we make a big deal about their margaritas, and with good reason; the Cock stocks all the best tequilas, and they serve them up as well as anyone around. But there are so many things to love about El Gallito that we're going to forget the booze this yearwell, at least for right now. First (yes, even before the mole) is owner Refugio Lopez. A kinder man would be hard to find; one with a better pitcher full of homemade salsa at the ready is damn near impossible. Then there's the mole: Find a better combination of tomatoes, garlic, cinnamon, and chocolate, we dare you. And the guacamole. Oh, the guacamole. The enchiladas are the best in town, so order a combo of one guac and one mole and you'll be in heaven. With their recent remodel and expansion, and the best old school signage in town, El Gallito tops the top. L.C.