But in January, Grand Central will move its $35,000 to $40,000 monthly flour contract to a more local source. The two Eastern Washington farmers who will be Grand Central's new suppliers are certified by the Food Alliance (a nonprofit organization that promotes sustainable food) and use "direct-seeding" procedures—the soil is not turned over by plow, thereby preserving the root structure, holding the soil together against erosion, and using less labor and fuel.
"It's one small step at a time," Bassetti says. "If we can prove with this alliance that we get a better product; that it's competitive, so we're not being priced out of the market; and that it's good for the farmer," other bread manufacturers may begin to catch on. Grand Central Baking Company's operation is smaller than that of Essential Baking Company, their major local competitor, but significantly larger than Macrina and La Francaise.
Robin Laananen
Curtis: putting the squeeze on global produce.
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"We will be paying a little more," she adds, "but we're confident we're going to be improving the flavor and the product. Hopefully, our customers will notice."
Christopher Frizzelle
Kid's Platter
Who: GREG ATKINSON
What he does: Introduces schoolchildren to homegrown, whole food.
Greg Atkinson is a changed man.
In the last few weeks, he has left his job as executive chef at Canlis—where men are strongly encouraged to wear jackets and spend money—to become the full-time chef at a nonprofit outdoor learning facility on Bainbridge Island—where fourth and fifth graders from the Central District and Bellevue gorge themselves on organic trail mix. "This week was particularly gratifying," he says. "It's amazing to feed 140 people three meals a day and have no complaints. It doesn't happen in fine dining."
Public-school students spend four days at IslandWood to satisfy Washington state's outdoor learning requirement. Most of the students' time is spent in the field (which, at IslandWood, is actually a forest). There is a stream running to a harbor, a pond with a floating classroom on it, and a ravine with a suspension bridge. Students do a variety of activities during the day, "but mostly they seem to eat," Atkinson says. "That's what it seems like to me, anyway." Last week he sent students home with a bag lunch of peanut butter and homemade jelly on homemade bread, organic oranges, and oatmeal cookies.
While there is no curriculum for food per se, "I think there are opportunities to learn about it anyway," Atkinson said. "Kids visit the garden where we grow food. Eventually, they'll be able to gather the food for our meals." A dinner of local free-range chicken often leads to a conversation about what "free-range" means. "We explain the difference between organic romaine and regular romaine lettuce. A lot of them haven't ever had a salad. A lot of kids tell me: 'This is the first time I've had real food,' or, 'I've never sat at a table that was set.'"
There were many reasons Atkinson gave up his former job for this one—the first being that IslandWood sprung up, literally, in his backyard (he lives on Bainbridge with his wife and two sons). He began wondering who was going to feed the kids, and then felt "called and compelled" to do it himself.
Now, he says, "I can walk through the woods to work, instead of speeding up 99. Even though we're going to have to live on less money, it feels better. My life feels better. And for the first time in my life, I can have dinner at home with my own kids."
Christopher Frizzelle
FOODIE FIELD TRIPS
On Saturday, Oct. 5, the Community Food Security Coalition conference organizers will lead tours of area farms and markets. All field trips cost $55 and include entrance to Saturday night's Celebration of St. Francis, "an evening of nature, spirituality, and the arts." To register, call 310-822-5410 or visit www.foodsecurity.org. Meet at the Holiday Inn, 211 Dexter.
MORNING TRIPS
KING COUNTY: GRACE UNDER PRESSURE Tour attendees will learn about King County's diverse farming programs and the challenges they face in the midst of rapid urbanization. They will tour a successful Seattle farmers market and area farms. Includes an afternoon class. Tour: 8 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Class: 2-6 p.m.
SEATTLE: FOOD BETWEEN THE CRACKS Small-scale farming, fishing, and market operations that are surviving in an urban setting. The tour will stop at Fisherman's Terminal, the High Point Market Garden, and the Pike Place Market, to name a few. Includes an afternoon class. Tour: 8 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Class: 2-6 p.m.
ALL-DAY TRIPS
SOUTH PUGET SOUND Visit Mother Earth Farm, which provides fresh produce to food programs areawide, an intergenerational community gardens, where more than 60 families grow their own food, and a unique Tacoma agricultural community. Includes lunch. 8 a.m.-5 p.m.
SKAGIT COUNTY: AGRICULTURE IN A CHANGING WORLD Skagit Valley is Western Washington's largest remaining agricultural area. Visit a range of small and large farms that are battling the effects of globalization, potential salmon preservation regulations, labor costs, and other issues. Includes lunch. 8 a.m.-5 p.m. 
