Shallots Asian Bistro
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2525 Fourth, 728-1888 Lunch Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner Monday-Thursday 5-10 p.m., Friday- Saturday 5-11 p.m. $7-$12
As promised by its name, Shallots presents a kind of Asian-fusion face to the world, with Szechuan pork sharing the menu with phad Thai, "Mongolian" ginger beef side by side with Philippine satay rolls and skewers. The restaurant also walks a delicate line between serving as a lunchtime take-out spot for north Belltown, a home-delivery service for surrounding condos, and a sit-down dining spot for foodies seeking novelty. The latter is to be found on Shallots dinner menu: Sat魰epper coconut prawns, the rock candy gingered rabbit, the French Cambodian New York Steak salad (our favorite), or something from the Lu pot (a stovetop slow cooker)? R.D.
Shiro's
2401 Second, 443-9844 Daily 5:30-9:45 p.m. Sushi $1.75-$12.50, dinner $18-$21
Shiro Kashiba knows what the hard-working salaryman or -woman wants after a long day: a friendly welcome, a hot towel, and a table full of the best sushi in town. After 40 years in the business, the master can still be found behind the bar on a Friday night, chatting with customers while deftly sculpting the elegant morsels honored by Zagat's in '98 and again in 2000. Don't miss the divine balance of mackerel, ginger, and shiso leaves in the Shiro's roll, the like-buttah yellowtail, or the gently fragrant black kasu cod. Even old standbys such as gyoza and agedashi tofu emerge from the small kitchen full of new life—the gyoza meltingly tender, the fluffy tofu tinged with a hint of smokiness. The restaurant serves dinner entr饳, but it's the daily specials that seduce: steamed clams in a delicate sake broth, fresh oysters brightened by a sprinkling of daikon, scallion, and soy-citrus ponzu sauce. End with rose-colored traditional sweet-bean ice cream, and before you go, raise a glass of Kirin to the simple things in life. D.S.
The Sitting Room
108 W Roy, 285-2830 Friday-Saturday 5 p.m.-2 a.m.; Sunday, Tuesday-Thursday 5 p.m.-midnight $4-$8
The garage door rolls up to let in the summer evening air at the Sitting Room, where small music combos also regularly contribute to a late-night hipster vibe. The place aspires to be a legitimate European-style neighborhood cafe. Certainly it looks the part, with Continental commercial art on the walls and copies of The International Herald Tribune and Le Monde hanging on pegs. Also soothing are the couches, orange walls, subdued lighting, and nonoverpowering sound system (world beat meets smooth jazz). A small menu favors quick, handheld fare. What's bruschetta? Not the Italian scooter. Instead, as a daily appetizer special, it's bread with olive spread and goat cheese—quite delectable. Wafer-thin pears adorn the tasty, large blue cheese-toasted walnut salad; seasonal greens are fresh, simple, and not overdressed. The mozzarella panini? Thick, chewy, substantial. Fennel-mushroom soup hit the spot without being too creamy. Service? Inattentive—in the proud, languorous European tradition. Later, however, as the bar gets livelier and the people-watching improves, you're in no rush to leave after eating. B.R.M.
Snappy Dragon
8917 Roosevelt Way NE, 528-5575 Monday-Saturday 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m., Sunday 4-9 p.m. $5-$10
Maple Leaf may be one of Seattle's quietest neighborhoods, but it's home to one of its livelier restaurants. On any given night Snappy Dragon is usually filled to capacity, not to mention the thriving take-out and delivery business. The menu and the portions are large, but the house specialties are what ensure the repeat visits. Most renowned are chef Judy Fu's homemade noodles and steamed dumplings. The noodles make one of the chow mein dishes almost obligatory and the dumplings—both the vegetable and pork varieties are superb—are even harder to resist. For those not interested in doughy treats, Snappy Dragon also excels with vegetable dishes. Simple fare like the saut饤 string beans with almonds succeeds as well as more original dishes such as glazed eggplant in garlic sauce. Despite the bustle, the service is friendly and efficient. The waitstaff seems to be comprised primarily of students, but they're surely honor students for whom the loyal customers would gladly write glowing college entrance recommendations. P.F.
Sostanza
1927 43rd E, 324-9701 Daily 5-9 p.m. $18-$27
Sostanza is very much a neighborhood restaurant. But since the neighborhood is quietly posh Madison Park, "neighborhood" doesn't mean slapdash or informal. The interior, in muted tones of brown and terra cotta, is Milanese chic masquerading as trattoria casual; the service is magisterial, but its authority is to be trusted. Any restaurant located where the kitchen was once occupied by the likes of Dominique Place or Erin Rosella has a lot to live up to, and Lorenzo Cianciusi meets the challenge with highly personal adaptations of North Italian classics. Pasta dishes here are particularly distinguished, never drowned in sauce and always toothsomely cooked: If you're not ravenous, skip the appetizers and split one. Main dishes tend toward hearty items such as roast fowl or pork, and Sostanza has the wine list to complement such choices; let your server direct you to a suitable selection. Desserts are first-rate, but if you have a sweet tooth, plan ahead, or you'll be too well fed to appreciate them. R.D.
Stumbling Goat Bistro
