Our 100 Favorites (part 3)

The Herb Farm

Hedges Cellars, 195 NE Gilman Blvd, Issaquah, 206-784-2222 Dinner Thursday-Sunday (reservation only) $149 (for nine courses and matched wines, tax and tip extra)

When people ask what is my favorite restaurant in Seattle, I tell them the Herb Farm. I know: It's not in Seattle, it requires months of forethought to get in, and it's monstrously expensive. I also know that chef Jerry Traunfeld could wrest edible wonderment from the Siberian tundra. Last year at a nine-course Indian summer dinner he produced an heirloom tomato and fennel soup, followed by pan-fried Mediterranean mussels served on rosemary sprigs with a red pepper-garlic flan and a shimmering sweet corn sauce. Later came an herb-rubbed rack of lamb topped with braised lamb tongue, alongside a mellow ragout of white beans and chanterelles. Was this dinner so perfect because of its whimsical deployment of herbs? The inventive verve of a true culinary mastermind? Its creativity within the limitations of place and season? The thoughtful matching of wines to each course? Sigh. I couldn't begin to tell you. K.R.

Hi-Spot Cafe

1410 34th, 325-7905 Breakfast Monday-Friday 8-11ish a.m.; lunch Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; brunch Saturday-Sunday 8 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Breakfast $5-$8, lunch $8-$10

We've come to assume by now that this popular spot is high on everyone's list for brunch, a latte and scone, or a luxurious weekday lunch (featuring egg dishes from breakfast, as well as soups, sandwiches, and salads). From VISA-commercial fame in the early '90s to an endless flow of hopeful weekend noshers, this place vies with Fremont for Center of the Universe honors. The restaurant-in-a-house pretty much keeps in tune with congenial Madrona, despite how much more expensive it is to live there, but the atmosphere is neighborly, no-nonsense, and quite pleasantly homespun. By all means, put your name at the bottom of the eternal waiting list for brunch, and have a mocha and a giant, buttery homemade cinnamon roll. Because, my friends, you'll be waiting for the better part of an hour before your table is called, and you need sustenance. When you finally get seated, head for the primo Northwest Exposure omelet (three eggs, scallions, Parmesan, garlic, several kinds of mushrooms and sour cream) or their melt-in-your-mouth pancakes. E.B.R.

Il Bistro

93A Pike, 682-3049 Dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30- 10 p.m., Friday-Saturday 5:30-11 p.m. $23-$40

Il Bistro presents a cool, even off-putting front to the public, its dark windows overshadowed by the deck of the Pike Place Market above. But this architectural attitude has contributed to the place's longevity: When you visit Il Bistro, it's a little like dropping into a private club and being welcomed among the habitu鳮 The menu is sternly, classically Italian, with a dozen variations on pasta always available, usually including gnocchi, tortelloni, and lasagne as well as the customary linguine and fettuccine presentations. An equal number of substantial main dishes evenly divided between fish and flesh specialties appear, but the Milanese classic veal scaloppine holds pride of place with four treatments, from plain piccata to showy saltimbocca, on offer. Antipasti and insalate at Il Bistro also include contorni: side dishes to complement any part of a meal, not just its beginning. Bruschetta, crostini, saut饤 greens, the grilled "Tuscan garlic bread," the scampi tossed in herbs and vermouth, the mussels saut饤 in tomato and basil are worth a try. R.D.

Il Terrazzo Carmine

411 First S,467-7797 Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., dinner Monday-Saturday 5-10 p.m. $20-$30

Carmine Smeraldo brought his classic Northern Italian fare to Pioneer Square's Merrill Place 17 years ago, and it's still thriving; a feat which owes to its longtime endorsement by Seattle's cognoscenti and utter devotion from a city full of business lunchers. Come evening, lights are dim, waiters discreet, and every table somehow feels tucked into a corner (there may be no better place in town for trysting). In summer, diners sup on the terrace to the strains of the Viaduct. Pastas are the thing here—you'll want to order half as a starter or one as a meal. Recently we sampled two sure-handed triumphs: spaghetti with arugula, pine nuts, and a dollop of goat cheese, and a nicely proportioned four cheese penne. A sea bass special, pan-seared with pancetta and pine nuts, was flawlessly prepared (but served, oddly, with an equally rich potato souffle). Big-ticket meats—sweetbreads, veals, tender fillets—are cloaked in rich, precise sauces and roundly praiseworthy, as are the wines to go with them. K.R.

Kabul

2301 N 45th, 545-9000 Dinner Monday-Friday 5-9:30 p.m., Saturday-Sunday 5-10 p.m. $9-$17

Its location amid the modern clutter of busy 45th Street belies the soothing atmosphere and ancient traditions of this beloved Wallingford institution, whose name conjures centuries-old trading routes leading to the Silk Road. Pale orange curtains and sage green walls hint at the flavors ahead: dried mint swirled with salt, accenting the tangy yogurt drink dogh; bolani, crisp fried triangles of potato, cilantro, and scallions served with a yogurt-garlic dipping sauce livened by paprika; and ashak, fresh scallion- and leek-filled pasta striped with yogurt and tomato sauces in a perfect balance of piquancy and sweetness. The best is yet to come—literally. The bara kebab, succulent lamb marinated in garlic, onions, coriander, saffron, and lemon juice, with just a hint of charred smokiness, is the most delicious this reviewer's ever tasted; served with tender eggplant and ribbons of paper-thin Afghan bread, it's a kebab fit for a king. Save room for not one, but two desserts: firni, a custard flavored with rosewater and cardamom, and homemade lighter-than-air baklava. Marco Polo never had it so good. Diane Sepanski

Kaspar's